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"GRA : Dress-Index" Project


GRA DRESS-INDEX SHOW


Thursday, March 7, 2013

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Group D of the Basic Year worked on the GRA DRESS-INDEX* project during the months of February and March 2013. Each student took ‘dress’ at the GRA as a starting point for new clothing designs. Each individual research resulted in one new outfit. These outfits were presented in the form of a fashion show at the staircase of the old GRA building (between 2nd and 3rd floor) on March 21st. It was an energetic – exciting – show, here a video synopsis of the show:

>> As one student said: People dress quite boring at the Rietveld, this is way more fun…. Why don’t we dress up like the GRA DRESS-INDEX outfits every day?

*GRA = Gerrit Rietveld Academy, Amsterdam
DRESS = Clothing in a broad sense; the way people wear, move around and behave in clothing
INDEX = List arranged usually in alphabetical order of
some specified data (as subject, or keyword)
<

DRESS-INDEX #18


Thursday, March 7, 2013

My observation started with peoples back. Everybody is being encouraged now a days to look at himself in everything that reflects, also at the Rietveld building where the glass plays a big role. In the reflection is most of the times only the front visible. The back of the body is, during the day, not so visible, but it is for others. People can’t look 360º, so they have to choose what’s worthy enough to look at and to show their front part of their body to. Thereby they will always show their back towards someone/ something else.

 

The torso and the neck is where i decided to put my focus on. With the face as the most detailed part of our body, thats presented ‘naked’ in the public, it has enough detail to show on the front and does not need to be supported by more details on the clothing. By all the buttons and extra decoration that are situated on the front of most people their clothing, we concentrate ours selves on those details on the front. Thereby the back of our cloth has almost no detail at all. So in a way our front is over-detailed/ decorated compared to the back.

covering body parts

 

I tried to make the back over-detailed while putting the focus on the front. The object on the back became a transparent bag / hoodie. The inside will be visible now which makes it more detailed. The material is plastic.

 

Creating more openness on the back by turning the clothes, makes the front of the clothing much more in harmony with the face. By hiding the details for yourself, therefore you have to move them to other places (like the back) or cover them, the front and the back will be much more in harmony.

 

Dress-index #17


Wednesday, March 6, 2013

My research.

 

The picture below i made it blurry.

 

Then i translated the overall colors in the pictures and put it in beams.

Recently i did a research which has shown that there are underlying tunes in colors that can be observed when i make the figures in the first picture blurry, followed by the CMYK beams. The CMYK beams have a combination with numbers to get a certain color. With this research i have a rich foundation which exists out of color, weight, patterns and even sounds, to make a dress. the dress design so far, are not interfere with normal daily functioning clothes. – There are several dresses out of the research. As soon as i started draping something else was happening. The act in clarity after the research faded, unfortunately. Afterwards, i decided to focus more on the color according to my research to comprehend the color beams/tunes.

 

In the picture below, you can see the shadows that are exposed on a particular time of the day.

 

Since there are dark colors on the photos at the beginning of my research, i linked that with shadows. To narrow down my research and to focus on something that would give my designs more padding, something that is still coming back in my research photos,  but was first very downplayed. I noticed an area where direct light from a light source cannot reach due to an obstruction by a ledge, which i created by folding the fabric, repetitive. Normally the sun causes shadows, also on certain times of the day and at certain heights, the length of the shadow change. But since i decided to treat my dress more as an sculpture and thereby also used ”Gesso” (which is a medium that you use on fabric before your going to paint a painting) to make my dress stiff. My dress became very static and the shadows that i painted on my dress are not changing at all, which i sort of created an illusion with shadow on the dress. From a certain angle you can see the ”shadow” and otherwise the dress looks white.

 

Here i took the picture aiming from top on the dress.

^ In this picture i was aiming from down on the dress.

 

My final dress.

On my second dress which was my final one, i focused a lot on, how i treat my dress, that i was  already questioning myself in the first try out dress. Should i treat it more as a sculpture or as a design that is wearable. There are elements that i used in my approach for the dress like : canvas,  wood to clamp the tube (skirt), gesso and paint. those are the characteristics for the upset of an painting. The difference in my first dress, and my second becomes more clear. I decided to present the dress not on a mannequin, but on a metal pedestal, and even put the dress in front of a painting, that the dress is connected with the painting and it becomes one with the painting. The gap between the first dress that was more design, and the second one started to get more clear. The idea during the show, of painting on my sculptural dress was to make clear that it finally became my sculptural painting.

 

DRESS-INDEX #16


Thursday, February 28, 2013

In the winter times the beanie-hat is for many people the quintessential way of sheltering their scalps from cold. However within the last decade or so, folk keen to fashion, dj-ing (and or irony) have no longer been contempt with having the beanie warm their heads and hide the sits on their foreheads, it has been been sneaked into the midst of summer, and inside our buildings. At the Rietveld Academie the beanie hat in a plethora of incarnations is used to subtly reinforce the self-image people wish to radiate. What does the way a hat look and sit on a dome say about the wearer stylistically

After working with wool and cotton hats i decided to look at the basic structure of the head ware. Examining the structure of the stitching and experimenting with taking them apart in search of new wearable structures. I started with a number of experiments involving string an different ways of wrapping them around the body

After a few tryouts i tried to work with the result image as a starting point and tried isolating the string from the rest off the image. I found that the free standing thread structure formed an interesting sculpture like picture, and decided to design my final product, around this idea.

For the final piece of garment i unraveled a headband, i choose based on its stitching and colour scheme. I used it for as headware and put together a long strip of fabric for a part covering the upper body.

 

I tried to experiment with the tightness of the fabric, and the dark colours against the winter pale models skin.
Because of the loose nature of the threads and the models discomfort with wearing the finished piece wrapped too tightly, the piece did not become a true incarnation of the original idea but gained a more trashy and nineteen-eightees-future-vision-dystopia kind of look.

 

DRESS-INDEX #15


Wednesday, February 27, 2013

When I look at the first research I did, I find some detail pictures of what people are wearing, pictures of hands, but most notable are the pictures of people sitting on the ground. In our classroom the ground is so full with our stuff and our bodies. We leave everything on the ground, our bags, clothes, camera’s and projects. When I look at the pictures everybody looks comfortable sitting on the ground and in a way vulnerable. The vulnerability is what interests me.

When I showed the research to Elisa she noted that because of the way of seeing and capturing, the bodies are in a weird perspective. Elisa showed the book “all events are even” from the photographer Mark Borthwick, I like the forms he creates in his images, the feeling it gives me connects with my research. I tried to compare the pictures of clothes on the ground with the pictures of people sitting on the ground. By removing all the skin and hair, I thought I would make them more similar to the clothes and bags on the ground. The comparison doesn’t really work, only a little because of the colors. But for me the pictures of the people sitting are much more interesting because they bring the clothes to life. I found it nice to discover that without the hair and skin, you don’t take away the vulnerability in the image.

The space that is left when I cut the person, becomes grey in photoshop. It was suddenly a very grey photograph because the floor, walls, window frames, doors, almost everything in the building is grey. We color the school with ourselves. One of my try-out outfits is based on the idea of making a “Rietveld building dress”. Because Rietveld makes me think of “de Stijl” I thought of using the shape of the Yves Saint Laurent “Mondriaan dress”. I used a grey fabric.

The other try out was the same model but with a pattern of the silhouettes. The result was quite boring so I cut the silhouettes out of the dress. The dress looked a little bit nicer, but I liked the forms that where left over the most. The shape of the YSL dress, that I used in both try outs, was to dominant so it had to go.

I tried to make a new dress where the YSL model is replaced with two body silhouettes. I am not satisfied with the dress, it gives to much of a “tarzan and jane” feeling. Under the dress the model had the left over forms from the previous dress pressed to her body with panties. The forms are used as underwear.

In the fashion show there needed to be an action with every outfit. I am thought of that action to be “cutting”, because that was what I was doing in my research and try outs. The dress that my model is wearing and that I am going to cut out, is one big silhouette, made from a firm fabric. When you cut out someones clothes, what is under is revealed, something vulnerable.

Inspiration Yoko Ono “Cut Piece”

DRESS-INDEX #14


Saturday, February 16, 2013

Knot (shot video collage)

 

Hair, an extremely personal thing. Every person wears there hair differently expresses themselves through there hair and struggles with what will suit them.

One style that has suited me very well is the bun, a style that is universally used by all long haired girls. In the Rietveld the bun is used often. It differs from high in the sky to a low and tightly rolled bun. While observing the buns of the rietvelders it occurred to me that our buns can be compared to some sort of landscape. An always alternating landscape in which we can feel at home, personalized and detailed to fit our character.

I personally wear my hair as a wild mountain like a high peak that just allows the mountains to peak out from the masses of the mountain filled horizons. Others wear there bun as a field meticulously organized by the farmer.

In the English definition of a “knot” (the way of saying bun in dutch) it stated that a know maybe a complex problem, but also a unifying bond and a feeling of tightness. I think that this contradiction shows exactly how people use the bun, and depicts exactly what i believe to be some kind of conclusion to the short video collage made above.

When transforming my research in to a 3d product I focused on two aspects. Using hair as the medium of choice and exploring on how I can translate my idea on how hair is a landscape. Using a wig, i tried to place the wig in such a way that it became a part of the body by overtaking other parts of the body.

This photo is an example of my process, I chose to let the hair take over the face as a mask having a longer suspense to come to final bun.
I transformed the hair in such away that the hair became a sort of man constructed field.

 

Using the mask idea as a basis, I hoped to develop the aesthetics of the mask. Markus Leitsch uses the same starting point covering a person with hair, the person becomes somewhat of an animal. This is a very direct relation to landscapes, by dehumanizing the person the concentration lays more on the piece.
This piece by Markus Leitsch is shown on the left. Its a very direct relation to the fur of an animal I really like how there is a certain movement in the hair. The movement that he has created also leads to the head, where the hair then comes together.

 

My final product became somewhat of a costume. I focused treating the hair as if it was a man made landscape, a corn field. I racked the hair, cut the hair for harvesting and collected some hair as if it was a hay stack to save for the winter months. This resulted to a somewhat fairy tale like piece. An absurd mask taking over the face with the main focus on the top of the hair where a bundel of hair lays lively.

For the presentation of the piece as part of the fashion show I chose to present it on a male. As mainly woman wear there hair long it would create a distance from my initial research and allow the piece to speak for its self.

I add a loose piece of hair on his pants unifying the outfit he was wearing and showing the build up from the bottom to the top of his body.

 

DRESS-INDEX #13


Thursday, February 14, 2013

The stalkers approach: A place and time is picked, and whoever, unknowingly, positions themselves in the spot of direct eye-catch, will be the victim. This person is objectively observed and described down to detail. The documentation grows more comprehensive and precise, following what details every movement reveals, until the object leaving the spot of observation marks the end of the session.

This particular observation was made during one and a half hours, from behind and in the dark. Gender remains unknown.

The text is given it’s visual form by what was observed during the session; colours, shape and direction of the words is dictated by these exact notes that were taken:

 

->Brown curls, shoulder length, wildly arranged

Jacket hung halfways over the chair in a sloppy way

Black leather, black synthetic fur collar, Left flap touches the ground

Scratching back, touching hair; thin blue sleeve comes visible: crochet in patterns, loose flaps at elbow, probably loose layers around the underarm

A slice of greyish jeans are seen between seat and backsupport of the silvergrey foldable steelchair

On the ground to the right lies a knitted black, blue, yellow + green bag with red top and zipper, handbag, approximately ten liters, decorated with pompoms hanging from each corner; braided with loose ends, made from all the yarn variations that occur in the knitted volume. Pattern: schematic spine fractions, line, line, one-time pierced rhombus, surface with fringe; shoulder hanger is attached with steel chain through rings

Right ancle is shown quickly, no skin, but torn, thready jean line

Left-tilting: Head (slightly, but this seems to be the preferred default-side), Jacket is thrown over left side of the chair, Bag tilts to the left (towards chair). The door is also on the left side.

Hair pulling makes a golden watch visible; 1 1/2 cm thick classic watch link armband

Rearranging: fur vest is pulled forward from under the jacket; put on, taken off, put over the chair, light grey knitted sweater with pattern that is traditional somewhere is chosen to be worn as first layer, then fur vest, then over-but leather coat.

5 cm heels (wedge)

Two bags: one red, one knitted.

Leaves early.

The now empty space has two knitted white sweaters in front of it, stripey fur coat to the right and burgundy hoodie to the left.

                                                                 

For the fashion show that finished the project off, I wanted to make an Observers Outfit. Does the observer want to be seen? I made golden glasses from two large key rings, two coat hangers and some see-through gold/silver foil,. With their both square and round shape and folds it gives the carrier a crazy, starry gaze. To go with them, I made a see-through plastic coat, with the window pattern of the academy building, viewed from the outside, on the back and a little collar on the front.

 

 

 

 

DRESS-INDEX #12


Thursday, February 14, 2013


Color combination is one of the strongest parameter of the way people dress.
But at the Rietveld, people also combine colors in their hair.
I’ve been around the school and found all different kind of combination, from black&white, green, pink, blue, etc.
And I was wondering to what extent does it change the perception you have of a person. There are some people that I’ve always seen with bi-coloured hair, then to me it is a normal thing to see them like this.

Therefore, when we had to make an outfit for a model, I went a bit further to transform the color combination into positive/negative, to create a non-existing part on the outfit, rather than adding an extra layer to the existing material.
I’ve chosen a regular black hoodie, where I’ve removed part of it, to create a clothe/non clothe combination.
I’ve used one of the girl I’ve photographed for my research, so it would combine the hair and the outfit.
I’ve also played with the hood, so you can cover your head completely or partially.
This is the result :


DRESS-INDEX #11


Wednesday, February 13, 2013

CLOTHING WITH REFERENCES

Looking around at the Academy I saw student and teachers dressing with clothing which has strong references to activities that are not preformed here. What does their choice of clothing refer to? how strong is the reference?

Sporty sneaks, originally made for different kinds of sport activities, running, indoor football. Military boots and other army/camouflage clothing. Clothing where we almost don’t even think of the original purpose anymore. But looking further around the academie i discovered some new tendencies of making functional clothing fashionable in the sense that army-clothing and sporty sneaks already have become.

On the picture above you see a man wearing functional outdoor pants and shoes for hiking, an outfit that would be necessary for at scout, but the surroundings tells us that he is teaching at an arts school.


On the pictures above you see some more examples. Leather boots for horseback riding, here combined with a black skirt and stockings.
A big green backpack of the well known outdoor brand haglöfs, very functional for hiking/camping because it can fit a lot of equipment, like sleeping bags, sleeping pad, but here you see it casually thrown on a chair in the computer-workshop. Or hanging almost empty on the back of a guy hanging out at the Academies entry.

I wanted to base my outfit literally on these new tendencies, so i choose a bag, a pair of pants for horseback-riding and a pair of boots for hiking as my materials. I tried out the possibilities for a backpack as my main part of the outfit.

Because of the backpacks functionality it has a zipper in the button, that makes its possible to turn the backpack in to a kind of tube and wear it  and then use the straps with buckles as shoulder straps .
Combined with the sporty cardigan in similar colors, a very fashionable outfit where the reference is paramount. That was only using one material and making one reference. I tried out another bag, a smaller version to give the outfit more possibilities.

This bag is more an old-school army version of the Haglöf backpack from my research. Compared to the pink/turquoise back-pack the green one has a lack of comfortable design, like soft straps and buckles, which makes the backside look more  stylish and less like a insect.

For the shoes i started cutting out all the soft fabric parts so there would only be leather left. I replaced it with golden chains and a golden strap from an old watch so they completely lost the good grip on the ankle. By doing that I took away all the functionality of the hiking boots, turned them into a fancy sandal, but without taking the strong references to outdoor clothing away.

I took the pants apart and putted them together again so the suede lost its protective purpose. I made them into hot pants which are not at all functional for sitting on a horse.

So from these three pieces of functional clothing with a specific purpose i made a very nonfunctional outfit, with strong references to outdoor living, horseback -riding and hiking. Only one very functional feature is left, the top can still function as a bag and can fit the whole outfit.

 

DRESS-INDEX #10


Wednesday, February 13, 2013

 

Desert storm, blizzard, hurricane, rain, overcast, mist, snow, and sun. All different weather conditions. From the extreme to the daily they all affect the way we dress, and the garments have just the same spectrum off difference as the weather effects themselves. Some strive to challenge the weather by dressing fashionable or delicate. I was more teased by their counterpart; the ones that never complain, instead wear comfy clothes and who’s clothes’s form follows function. Their occupation may vary but their way of dressing makes no weather bad.

I started sketching in my mind, on paper and with materials. Building a tent for my thoughts to gather in. The materials I used was of a similar kind from what tents are constructed of. Plastic and synthethic fabric sewn together by hand to form some sort of shell and shelter from weather abuse. In the process I was inspired by certain type of insects who truly change their biological structure and appearance through the various life stages that they go through. I could see a similarity in the way people dress and undress from practical to unpractical that corresponded to the way insects evolve. Although the similarities was quite apparent I didn’t want it to be in the visual presentation of my outfit. Instead in my early version of the garment it’s wearer rolled in to it while lying on the floor. It was as though the caterpillar spun its body with silk for a transformation.

 

 

Just as the silk hardens and loses its transparency, so did mine. The first try-outs were all built of see-through plastic but the final result was all made out of a red sheet of tarpaulin. Cut in pieces and sewn together with a machine. The handy-craft garment changed over to sturdy mass-produced work-wear. And it is just as tough as it looks. All thanks to the material properties of the tarpaulin; being at one hand flexible, easy to work and move in, it is still sturdy enough to not break and it isolate its wearer from pouring rain. Worn with little in-under and the design lets air move easily in and out of the outfit which make you arrive free from any odor. At the same time all pieces are big enough for you to pack yourself with many layers of clothing underneath their resistant plastic layering. With this outfit you are set for anything, no matter the weather.

 

 

DRESS-INDEX #9


Wednesday, February 13, 2013

It strikes me that people are not afraid to combine many patterns and colors. I heard that someone got restive when he thinks of the combination of squares with stripes. On the academy, I see many combinations. The boundaries are shifting here and certain “rules” like the squares with stripes or certain color combinations are wiped which sometimes new patterns emerge and some unexpected colors still come out better than you expected. I’m going to delve into the lines that might not be consciously created and a certain kind of natural transition into an outfit.

So, I started collecting different kinds of fabrics and made different combinations with them. Various types of woven wool, cotton, polyester and synthetic fabrics are the materials which I have chosen.


A jumpsuit is always a garment that I would like to make so, this was the perfect opportunity. Also because it is a complete outfit consisting of a entirety. Because my choice is about combinations of different colors, fabrics and patterns it seemed to me the ideal of a proper clothing, no boundaries but a continuous whole. To stay close to my research I chose red, gray, white and blue mainly for the colors. I’ve made from various old garments. The tubes are a sweater, the hull consists of a dress and I putted a leather cross in it. The hood I made from a dress. With this design I have primarily focused on large surfaces and materials that can be combined.

Because the main focus on my first jumpsuit is directed to large surfaces substance, I decided to make another jumpsuit but then with more details. Here again, I made use of many wool combined with a synthetic substance.
Again in the suit I sewed a pattern, again of wool, consistent with my research. These details you will come back in several places on the suit. By letting different parts open, the outfit gives you the opportunity to create many more patterns and colors so you always can make your own special outfit and never have to wear the same.

shaun-samson-5 IMG-20130307-WA0003

this outfit above inspired both material as color boundaries

FINAL RESULT

Previously I thought that many Rietveld students wore brown. This I think no more, thanks to this study.

 

DRESS-INDEX #7


Monday, February 11, 2013

Gerrit Rietveld Academy. The building were I spend the most of my one hundred sixty eight hours the week has to offer. The building were I drink the most of my coffee , which I pick up in the canteen on the ground floor.

The canteen. There is my starting point.

When I look around I see a diagram of the clothes worn in Gerrit Rietveld. The canteen is a meeting point, were people from all departments as well as teachers and visitors take their coffee and have their meals. I find it interesting to sit there and look around. Nobody can know what I am thinking about and nobody cares.

I find it nice to look at the textiles, and since my background is in tailoring maybe it is almost an old habit. I try to realize if there is any trend going on. Is there particularly much of some certain kind of fabric? Printed? Colorful? Patch worked? Second hand? Do we have more woven fabric visible or is it knitted, felted or even leather fabric we see? And what content do the fibers have. Are they made out of processed animal hair or plants so we can call them natural? Or are they more on the synthetic spectrum? Sometimes it is hard to see and then it comes to guessing…

After writing randomly down what is to see in the canteen on a regular day I decided to make myself a system; to take snapshots and analyze them. I took one before lunch and one in the lunch brake. By analyzing the photographs, which should give me a quite good overview on the average dress code in the academy, I calculated the ratio between the textile fibers and the processes they have been put in.

As you can see the ratio between the natural fibers and the once that are either synthetic or mixed with synthetics is 40 % versus 60 %. That means that out of 5 cloths 2 will be made out of natural fibers and 3 of synthetic related material.

On the other histogram you can see that woven and knitted material is what we have most of in our surrounding, but since shoes are often made of leather, the leather bar has some value as well.

 

When it came to making an outfit related to the research I decided to choose weaving as a method, since weaving and knitting are the main processes of the fibers in Rietveld surrounding according to my results. I wanted to work with raw material, and since wool and cotton are the most common natural fibers in (Rietveld) clothing I choose to work with sheep wool among with fish skin, which I count as leather. The weaving I did in a very primitive  way to match the rest of the working process. I wanted to keep the process of the fiber out of my work, and that worked better in combination with very course weaving. The headpiece I made to make more harmony in the outfit, since the woolen outfit is quite overwhelming on its own and in that way I could also represent a suitable ratio of leather in the outfit according to my research.

At last I wanted to show layers, since we most of the times have many layers on ourselves in everyday life. I decided to stick with the raw material and the weaving method worked well for this. I took several kinds of plastic, which can be recycled and processed into textile fibers, as well as fish skin and bast, and wove them into the structure.


DRESS-INDEX #6


Monday, February 11, 2013

 

C82% M79% Y46% K45%

 A mysterious dark blue was the starting point of my observation,

 I could see this color on everybody, combined with lighter tints of blue and black,

wearing simple jeans and very little accessories.

 And most of the time a comfortable sweater in the same color.

The connection between the school as a building and the students in it became clearly visual for me;

people walking down the blue stairs transforming into a different scene

like a landscape with elements that make sense between each other.

Students sitting on the floor working on their projects are getting camouflaged with the surrounding,

and become just a dark spot on the ground.

I based my research on these two observations;

the dark blue sweater and the camouflaged people.

 

I started experimenting with the conventional clothes that I constantly see at school.

I tried out different ways of wearing them, getting new forms and textures.

I also experimented with daily tools like scissor,

school materials and basic materials like tape and plastic bags to finish off the clothes.

      

The shapes I got were really interesting.

Especially the one that came out from a simple sweater,

which I turned into a strange hoody giving it an urban-hip-hop feeling which I also perceived at school.

The tension of the fabric created on the shoulders by the way of wearing the sweater,

makes you bend a bit to the front like the people working on the floor.

I created a skeleton out of the sweater, a basic structure,

and then I worked on the details based on some objects I used in my research,

scissors, tape and a plastic bags on which I drew some black patterns with marker

I painted the leggings with the same gray scale from the building

They turn into live pillars supporting the heavy structure, cracking with the movement of each step.

DRESS-INDEX #5


Monday, February 11, 2013

RESEARCH.

To continue my project I started doing research on various postures students at the Rietveld Academy take during making, creating, building their work. I have made pictures of how people behave in their clothing, the way their clothes work with the body while working and noted that the students don’t dress according to the task they are working on, like for example people working at building sites do. These students just wear what they like to wear!
So is it more image than comfort and protection what they are looking for?
Although the clothes do not seem to really get into their way whilst working, I was especially intrigued by their shoes.
I noted a difference between comfortable and less comfortable shoes for working and I also noted that shoes sometimes are used as some kind of tools. The shoes that attracted my interest the most were the shoes looking far from comfortable.

The black platform shoes are less flexible to the way we move our body. The height of the sole seems to limit adjustment to movement. The platform shoes do seem to be used as “tools” much more than flat, flexible shoes. These white sneakers below look much more comfortable, because of their flexibility. They adjust more to the foot in different postures.

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On the first movie can be seen how difficult it is wearing platform shoes going down the stairs. Why would someone wear these shoes I wondered…? As the boy wearing them explains in the second movie it was the design that triggered him buying them. “It was an online buy so I haven’t fitted them. And by wearing I noticed the difficulty walking on them and how heavy they actually are. They are absolutely not comfortable” he remarks. So it looks platform shoes are anything but comfortable. How can it be that these uncomfortable shoes are so popular at the Rietveld Academy.

 

(more…)

DRESS-INDEX #4


Monday, February 11, 2013

 

 

The bag is everywhere on the human body. It is being up, middle and down and even disappears.

In my impression, the bag acts a minor role on the human body wherever it is. Starting to cut a bag into pieces based on observation sketches above and then making collages.

Making collages which have a feeling of extracted elements of the bags in the academy, which are ‘devotion’ and ‘indifference’.

 

The final outfit:

The black surfaces, which are originally part of the bottom of the bag,
are shaped in some volumes in order to depict an emphasis of its usability.

The twisted form of the shirt and the parts of a T-shirt represents a gap between ‘devotion’ and ‘indifference’ (which is a concept of this outfit). Gray fabric attached to the leg expresses a sense of coldness. It traces my impression of the locations where the bag is in the academy.

 

 

DRESS-INDEX #3


Sunday, February 10, 2013

My research was about what kinds of socks Rietveld people wear and how they wear their socks. Every day in school I see many people roll up their pants and show their colorful, various kinds of socks. That interests me and triggered me to do this research.

Socks have evolved over the centuries from the earliest models which were made from animal skins gathered up and tied around the ankles. Nowadays, socks can be created from a wide variety of materials like as cotton, wool, nylon, acrylic, polyester, etc. Styles or patterns are innumerable, one color, dots, stripes, argyles, complex patterns…

So I started collecting pictures of different kinds of socks in school, and ask the people questions like  where they are from, where they got the socks, why they roll up pants to show two socks.

Polka dot is a very common pattern, it gives a lively and playful feeling, also the color combination on this pattern is often contrast, vivid, for example, black and white, red and yellow, pink and white, etc. Many Rietveld people wear socks with Polka dots, and they are from everywhere, while the pattern started to appear on clothing in the late 19th century in United Kingdom.

Another common pattern is stripe. They are so common and worldwide popular that I could not even find a convincing origin of them… You can see them almost everywhere in your daily life, also it is a very normal pattern on socks, I am personally not a fan of stripes but I believe I have at least four pairs of socks that with stripes.

One-colored socks are also quite popular in school, there are basically two ways of wearing them: 1. Dark colors, “hiding” in between pants and shoes, they are there but you don’t really notice them; 2. vivid colors, like pink, skyblue, or even neon colors, sometimes they also wear just white socks while their pants and shoes are black, to create this contrast, to catch your eyeballs.

I noticed that many Scandinavian people in school wear socks with argyle patterns, which is kind of interesting because this pattern is originally from Scotland in th 17th century. In Rietveld,  argyles socks are often in combination with aged oldschool sneakers.

I also noticed that some people wear 2 different socks on each foot, when I asked some of them about the reason, they said they simply could not find the other socks.

As for the reason that people roll up their pants and show their socks, the most frequent given answer I got from people was ‘just for the style‘. Some say when the pants are too long, they look lazy and drab, they roll up the pants to keep the energy up. Some people simply love socks, they collect all kinds of socks (one girl I interviewed says she has four big boxes of socks), they are proud of their socks and they want to show them to people.

My idea was to exaggerate the fact that people show their socks, make it a bit extreme.  So I made a huge socks that you put on your head.

 

 

DRESS-INDEX #2


Sunday, February 10, 2013

For my research  I was walking through the school, and photographing students that stood out to me. Then, I wandered into one of the departments, and started to observe the people that were working there. As I watched, I noticed that they behave differently here then they do in the hallways. So much more comfortable, almost as if they are at home. That’s when I realized that the departments are like save havens for the students, a place where they feel in place. So I started taking pictures.

After taking a lot of photographs, I started to notice that there were connections visible between the students and their surroundings, either in color, shape ore material. So I started documenting the connections that became visible to me. I did this first through photographs, and later also through drawing and 3-D experiments. In the images below, I tried to visualize the connections that I saw between the girl in the checkered shirt and the materials that she was working with (in the pictures above). In this case I did this through drawing and a 3-D experiment.


After doing this research and the experiments, I decided that my concept for making an outfit would be ‘connecting to the school’ through clothing. So I started to make try-outs at home, using different techniques. My main focus at first was to let the clothing connect through shapes in it’s surroundings. I made two molds out of fabric, and started to put them on a dummy to create different shapes. On the pictures below you can see a few examples.

When I was done with experimenting with these shapes on the dummy, I realized that I wasn’t satisfied with them. They didn’t make the connections between the clothes and the environment clear enough. So I started to head in a different direction. My next idea was to make the connections clear through photographs. I started with small experiments, by taking a 360 turn in the classroom, and making a snapshot every time I turned. With these photographs, I then experimented with paper and fabric.


My idea now, is to take snapshots like this of the whole entire school, documenting every corner of the building. After that, I want to use the technique from the image above, to create an outfit completely constructed out of photographs, in which every angle of the building is visible, and connecting to it in a very visual way.

When I started to work on the actual outfit, I found out that it is nearly impossible to make a whole outfit out of this self-made grid-like material. So I decided that I would print out the pictures of the school on paper in stead of on fabric, and I proceeded to make the design that you see on the pictures below by sewing the paper onto fabric. After finishing that outfit, I really didn’t like it. It didn’t reflect what I had in mind ore my research. So I decided to make a completely new outfit, using the previous one as a prototype. This is the result.

Looking back on this project, I realize that I changed my mind many times. This started already at the beginning of the research, where I struggled with finding a good way of working. Eventually, I found that the best way for me was to just observe, seeing the connections that became visible to me between the students and the building, and trying to visualize these through drawings and photos. Then I got a bit stuck again, trying to incorporate the connections in forms. So I went into another direction, this is the direction that I stuck with until the end, making connections to the building by simply using photographic images of the school and incorporate them in the fabric of the garment. In this process, I again changed my mind while I was working, by going from using actual paper photographs to drawing the images onto the fabric by hand. The garment now feels as a real result of the research, a clear conclusion after a lot of doubts and changes.


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